Once Obscured in the U.S., Lao Cooks Share and Celebrate Their Cuisine

Thum mak hoong, or papaya salad, is a fundamental dish in Lao cuisine, with as many variations as there are cooks.Damon Casarez for The New York Times At times spicy and bitter, salty and pungent, herbaceous and sour — Lao food is intensely delicious.

LOS ANGELES — Ava Phengsy is a Lao home cook, but I also think of her as an artist.

Her medium is Instagram, and the subject of her obsession is thum mak hoong — Lao papaya salad — a synthesis of many precise flavors including concentrated black crab paste, intensely sour roasted hog plum and the powerfully […]

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